A Liberty Confection

 Each year I attend “The Gatsby Summer Afternoon,” a vintage themed picnic set in the 1920’s and 1930’s. Guests brings a fancy themed picnic with their best vintage china, linens, and décor. Vintage automobiles are parked across the expensive lawn of the Dunsmuir estate in Oakland, California. To fit in with this gorgeous setting, of course we must look the part! This means either dressing in vintage attire, or making something suitable for the period.

I have been attending the Gatsby Summer Afternoon since 2004, which means I’ve had the opportunity to create many period correct outfits for myself, my friends, and family. I love this period in fashion history, so I’m always excited to create something new. For 2022, I wanted to make the Gatsby dress I had been dreaming of for several years. I had ideas floating around my mind, and finally I began to form them into a bias-cut, floor-length gown with large, tiered ruffled sleeves. When I found a Jadeite green Liberty print cotton voile fabric, in an exact print they had been producing since the 1930’s, I knew I had my fabric. 

I drafted the bias pattern into a dress with a zig-zag detail at the upper hip, from which the skirt flared out into four flared bias gores. I utilized every inch of the fabric width that I could get, to maximize the flare. The upper portion of the dress was comprised of a bias mid-section, and a bodice with a V-neckline and large self bow at the center front, trimmed in contrasting organza. 

The back was cut in two long sections, omitting the front underbust seam that wasn’t necessary in the back. This allowed the fabric and print to flow smoothly from the neck down to the hip, shaped by a single center back seam. The dress had a period correct snap and hook closure at the left side. Horsehair braid at the hem gave the skirt a lovely sweep. A self belt with vintage buckle finished the look.

Sleeves! I wanted them to be big, full, ruffles. “More is more!” I thought. I used circular ruffles, alternating in length between the liberty print and a coordinating Jadeite green silk organza. 

This dress was so much fun to wear, and I got many compliments throughout the day. I am looking forward to the next opportunity to wear my dreamy Liberty print confection!