Flora Dora

I love a good opportunity to make a new costume, so when some friends invited me to see a performance of “Flora Dora,” a musical that debuted in London in 1899, I jumped at the invitation! Here was my chance to create an evening gown from one of my favorite eras; the late 1890’s, right before the Edwardian era. I wanted to try something a little different; to create an evening gown sculpted around the body from neck to hem, with no waist steam. The silhouette in 1899 was long and slender, but not quite as straight as the fashions that would come a decade later. There was still a defined waist and a slightly rounded hip, but without the fullness of the bustle era. Evening dresses of the time often draped from a smooth waist into a flared skirt with a train. 

I drafted this pattern with an off the shoulder neckline that pleated into the side body, and flowed smoothly down the front into the skirt. The back was also sculpted into the waist with pleats, falling over the hips and into a flared train, edged in a self ruffle. I chose a lovely teal lightweight silk/cotton sateen fabric that has a beautiful satin sheen. I found the perfect antique gold floral lace as a contrasting overlayer; they looked beautiful together and very antique. To support the off-the-shoulder neckline, I threaded narrow spiral steel boning through the straps to give them support; it was very comfortable and prevented the fussing of straps slipping down all evening. I used a period correct hook and eye closure down the center back.

Later that year I had another opportunity to wear this gown, to an event at a historical home. Little did I know that evening I would have the chance to meet Cammie King Conlon, the actress who played Bonnie Blue Butler in Gone With the Wind! I purchased a copy of her autobiography and got to chat with her for a while; she was a lovely woman and I was so excited to get to meet her.